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What can I do Orange flash female eats eggs?

Apisto ranch

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Amarillo'Texas
I'm going on my 4th fry of eggs with my female flash. But everytime I notice the eggs she eats them. This her 4th fry in alittle as 30 days. But never makes it to wigglers.
Now I'm tryed removing the male and the female but everyones told me that they where good parents. Just to give her time and she'll come around and make it. Well now I'm wanting to remove the eggs the frist time I see them.

Is there something special I have to do to keep the eggs from getting funges on them and going bad?

How can I stop her from eatting the eggs if anything?

Now I know I've asked this questions before. But never really got any answers that made any differnts. Some has told me to leave her be and she'll come around. That didn't work. Then they've told me that I couldn't remove the eggs and have them make it. So now what can I do to insure that at least one fry makes it?

Pleas anythings better then the let her be point of veiw. I'll try anything to get her to have at least one fry make it.
 
A

ayckorea

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Apisto ranch said:
Is there something special I have to do to keep the eggs from getting funges on them and going bad?

How can I stop her from eatting the eggs if anything?

So now what can I do to insure that at least one fry makes it?

Add METHYLENE BLUE; Apply air bubbles near the eggs...

I dun think any method can stop her eating the eggs...

Take the eggs out and hatch them yourself...

GOOD LUCK!!!
 

Apisto ranch

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Amarillo'Texas
I can't get the meds your talking about here. I've tryed looking them up and they'll take awhile to get here. By the time it gets here the eggs will have gone bad.

Can I use malafix or primafix ?

Now when I remove the eggs there still on the under side of the cave will putting the ir stone about at the enterance work?
 

mematrix

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Alvarado Tx United States
Artifical hatching methode

Apisto ranch said:
Is there something special I have to do to keep the eggs from getting funges on them and going bad?

How can I stop her from eatting the eggs

Then they've told me that I couldn't remove the eggs and have them make it. So now what can I do to insure that at least one fry makes it?

Pleas anythings better then the let her be point of veiw. I'll try anything to get her to have at least one fry make it.

Hi Apisto Ranch. I have had the same problems with my Cruzi and Cacatuoides and also my rams. I started removing the eggs and artifically hatching them in a 1qt or 1gal jar hung or set up in the parents tank or growout tank. I take the eggs (cave rock ect) and all and place them in the jar with RO/distilled/rainwater any will do I mostly use distilled put an air stone in with it very near or as close to the eggs as possibel with a good flow so there is a good water circulation. Then as a anti fungal I use 3% hydrogen peroxcide (walmart/store brand) 12 drops per qt every 12 hrs give or take. When the fry hatch I gently blow the fry off the object (I use an old water test pipett with a piece of air hose attached) I also remove the fungused eggs too with it. You can choose to stop the hydrogen peroxcide then if you want I have done this till freeswimming and not. That is how I prevent the female from eating the fry/eggs and I have had reasonable success especally the rams. Here is the links where I got the method both are the same principle just a little different. I use the first one most

http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/breeding/bluerambreeding.html
http://www.gcca.net/howto/hatch_substrate_spawners.htm

Hope this works for you if it does send me a pr of fish LOL just kidding It will work for you it does for me I got cruzi agassizii rotpunkt cacatuoides and rams as proof. even 1 lone bristel nose pleco too LOL

Sincerely Curtis
 

blueblue

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Hong Kong
1. Methylene blue is classic and is the chemical that many fish farms are adopting for hatching. With it, one can achieve a 90%-100% success in hatching eggs.

2. Curtis: May you share more with us on the success rate and precaution when using Hydrogen Peroxcide? It is interesting to know that there is another method which helps. Thanks :)
 

mematrix

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265
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Alvarado Tx United States
re to post

Hi Blue blue. I have been using the hydrogen peroxcide method for a bout a year now. I have found it to be about 70% for me though i thinK that the circulation is more important. When the eggs are laid more on the top/roof of the caves (I use small flower pots) the proper water circulation is harder to obtain. So my hatch percentages are very fluid. Also i try to remove any fungused eggs with my pipett which is some times quite difficult without harming nieghboring good eggs. My artifical hatchings are stil a work in progress and percentages are getting better as I get more experienced at doing it. The last 2 spawns rotpunkt and cruzi were much beter about 75-80% hatch out of around 100-120 eggs each. My main reason for using hydrogen peroxcide is cost $1.00 aprox for 16 oz bottel as to $2.99 up for 4 oz. And it don't stain the tank and equip and breaks down to just water. Doesn't harm biological system or plants. And helps prevent hydras from too much BBS feeding. And it is what was required in the first link I gave and that link is what gave me my first success spawning Blue rams now over 20 spawns Blue rams later I am convinced it works.

Sincerely Curtis
 

blueblue

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Thanks much Curtis.

Yes, i agree with you that hydrogen peroxcide does have its advantage over
Methylene Blue... by the way, are there any precautions and negative side-effects with it?


mematrix said:
Hi Blue blue. I have been using the hydrogen peroxcide method for a bout a year now. I have found it to be about 70% for me though i thinK that the circulation is more important. When the eggs are laid more on the top/roof of the caves (I use small flower pots) the proper water circulation is harder to obtain. So my hatch percentages are very fluid. Also i try to remove any fungused eggs with my pipett which is some times quite difficult without harming nieghboring good eggs. My artifical hatchings are stil a work in progress and percentages are getting better as I get more experienced at doing it. The last 2 spawns rotpunkt and cruzi were much beter about 75-80% hatch out of around 100-120 eggs each. My main reason for using hydrogen peroxcide is cost $1.00 aprox for 16 oz bottel as to $2.99 up for 4 oz. And it don't stain the tank and equip and breaks down to just water. Doesn't harm biological system or plants. And helps prevent hydras from too much BBS feeding. And it is what was required in the first link I gave and that link is what gave me my first success spawning Blue rams now over 20 spawns Blue rams later I am convinced it works.

Sincerely Curtis
 

mematrix

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265
Location
Alvarado Tx United States
re to post

:eek: Sorry Blue blue I totally spaced out addressing that Querry you asked in last post my apoligies. I have not seen or had any ill effects that i can relate directly to the use. Though there might be a possibility of overdoseing. The article I used said aprox 1 ML per gal 10 drops per quart every 12 till the eggs start to hatch. I have continued till they were freeswimming with no ill effects. But the article doesen't say anything else on that subject. I did use 3 cap fulls to kill off some hydras while adult fish were in the tank and no ill effects except to the hydras lol.It was in a 10 gal

Curtis
 

nightowl1350

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Brampton, Ontario
If you can't get meth blue use hydrogen peroxide. The 3 % solution sold in drug stores an airstone and heater. You must hatch away from the parents....peroxide will damage gill if exposed too often. I haven't done it with apisto eggs yet....next time. But I use peroxide for my angels and blue ram eggs. I use aprox 5 mls in a 10g tank while they are eggs only. Dose once a day as it will become water and air in 24 hours or less.

I love the fact it is clear, the eggs get tiny air bubbles on them and you don't have to remove it with w/c like you do meth blue.

Good luck with hatching them. I will be pulling my next spawn of eggs as well.
 

Apisto ranch

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Amarillo'Texas
I thank you for the links and the help. The female has started showing her little signs of getting ready to lay eggs. I see her do this and with in 24hr. she's done her thing. So this time i'm ready for her I've gotten all the things ready to raise them on my own now. LOL
Wish me luck. I'm going to get some babys out of her this time one way or another.
 

Apisto ranch

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Amarillo'Texas
OK Mematrix I'm a day into it now. Like I told ya'll my orange Flash female did her thing again { She's a little rabbit I sware This is her 5th egg batch in less then 2 weeks } I'm not sure if this is normal for Apisto's But Anyway she did her thing and I waited. Til the Dad was being rushed away ever time he'd come close to the cave before I took the eggs.
Now I didn't have a little heater So I took one from my Betta fry tank{10g}
So now I have them in a 3gal bucket I use for W/C's. Her's some pics of the way I've got it set up.
100_1128.jpg


100_1129.jpg


100_1130.jpg
OK I'm using 3% HP and doing 3ml. every 12hrs. LIke I had read in the artical Is this to much should I make it every 24hrs?
 

Apisto ranch

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Amarillo'Texas
Hey Mamatrix I'll be down your way Tuesday morning 01-24-06 around 8am at the Universitey medical Center in Lubbock. Give a pm or e-mail if your still needing a male Nijsseni I have 2 left. So let me know.
 

mematrix

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Alvarado Tx United States
re to post

Hi Apisto ranch. It looks like it should work. I think your dosage is ok don't be discouraged if you don't get a large hatch rate It takes a few times to get the method down and figure out how it works best for you. Good luck

Curtis
PS: I sent you a PM
 

Apisto ranch

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OK I just want to let all know who's looking in on this or fallowing this post. It's now day 3/ 5:20 pm central time U.S. I just went to add another dose of HP 3% when I noticed that the eggs had fallen from the top of the cave And was just fixing to come make a post to ask if this was normally for them to fall off there area they where attached to.
Well before I could get the site up my son told me he seen one move. I thought yea ok { He's 6 what would you thank } any way. I had to tell him I'm sorry LOL They r starting to move around. I have wigglers. LOL
From What I'm seeing of the eggs on the left on the cave wall. It's about a 80 to 90% hatch so far. I used 3.5ml of HP in 3.5gals of water every 12hrs.
I mean every 12hrs. On the nose 3pm and 3am every 12hrs. LIke clock work Buddie. LOL I wanted these eggs to hatch BADLY. Pics coming up with in the next hr. LOL
 

nightowl1350

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Keep us posted....you are on the right track. Peroxide will dissipate after about 12 hurs, so you should be fine. Now that they are wigglers you can stop it or cut right back on it.

I pulled my apisto C eggs and hatched with peroxide, but many eggs were white. I think there are about 10-14 wiggers in the spawn. I hope that is why my pair (and just Mom) have been eating their spawns. I don't think mine will free swim till about Friday.

Good luck with yours.
 

Apisto ranch

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Amarillo'Texas
OK as I said with in the hr. well i'm about 30min lte but better later then never right. Ok here's a couple of pics of the now hatching eggs.
100_1227.jpg
now if you look relly close you'll see where the good eggs hve falling away from the white eggs and r laying on the bottom of the cave peices right in front of the yellow rock.
100_1227.jpg


Now that the eggs are hatching how long should I wait before moving them into there own tank?
Once they go from wigglers to free swimming before I should fed them LIve BS?
How offten should I fed them BS and what else should I be feding them?
would boiled egg yolk work til my BS hatch?

Ok thats all my BS tonight now I'm waitting on replies HINT HINT just as soon as possable please. LOL
 

nightowl1350

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Brampton, Ontario
You wait till they are free swimming to feed bbs. As mine have never hatched I can't say for sure how long it will be, but 6 or 7 days from the day the eggs were layed is my guess.
I would remove the bad eggs (fungus may take over the wigglers) You can use a turkey baster and suck up the good wigglers, then remove the container they bad ones are on. Wigglers are fine in a small hatching area, but you will need to do w/c on them. I use a 5g tank to hatch angel or ram eggs and do a small w/c every few days till free swimming, then they get daily w/c. Angel free swimmers are moved witin a day or 2 as they can have 400 or more in an average spawn.
 

Apisto ranch

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Amarillo'Texas
Ok I moved all the wigglers to what will be there new home for the next 6 weeks. Now I have a few questions they may sound like I dodn't know what I' doing. LOL wait I don't LOL No I'm raising Betta fry at this time also so I'm kinda going by what I've learned from them.

1. Should I leave the water level at 4inches or so? Are should I just go anead and fill the tank completely?

2. I was going to fill it with water from One of my {9} other tanks will this be better then just tap water ?

I know mamtrix you said a mason jar but all those are full of Crown tail betta's right now. LOL So I went out and got a low flow HOB filter with sponge covering the intake of it and a 10gal tank for them.
I had a 90% hatcht out guys and I thought this was way above advages. Out of all the eggs I only pulled 10 that went bad. And there was only 2 or 3 eggs at the most that I seen that was eyed up but didn't hatch.
Pics coming tomorrow of hopfully free swimming. Today is day two of wigglers.
 

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