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Water parameters need to be tested for dwarf cichlid setup?

Spartan16

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Hi, I am not to the forum, and new to dwarf chiclid ownership. I currently have a 20 gallon community tank, but am adding a 29 gallon dwarf chiclid tank. I do frequent water changes, but I only test total ammonia, and ph level in my tank. I have a couple live plants to contral nitrate, but dont test for it. Everything seems fine, and I have only lost a couple fish in the last year, and have had to give away many because of all the fry.

From what I read though it sounds like dwarf chiclids are a little more fragile that some of my robust livebearers. Therefore, what water parameters need to be tested and monitered in a dwarf chiclid tank? There seems like there a ton of things you can test for in a tank, but I want just the biggies. Thanks!
 

Mike Wise

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Hi & welcome to the forum.

The question you asks has many different answers. It really depends on the species that you keep. Dwarf cichlids come from all kinds of water types. For me, the most important tests are the pH and hardness of my tap water. If your water is soft enough, most dwarfs will do fine with normal aquarium maintenance, just like your livebearers. If your water tends to be hard & alkaline, then you have to decide: do I keep species suitable for my tap water values, or do I adjust the water to what the species wants.
 

Spartan16

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Thx mike,

Can you recommend any chiclids for my 29 gallon. Tap water is 6.5 ph, and slightly hard. I think I would have happier fish if I get some that match my water. Hopefully there is a dwarf cichlid species out there for me.
 

Mike Wise

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Tap water with a pH 6.5 is normally relatively soft. Without knowing what "slightly hard" means, it is hard to give more than general information. Some good fish to start with - that handle most water conditions that aren't extreme - include: A. cacatuoides, A. borellii, A. eunotus forms, A. caetei, A. sp. Rotpunkt, A. sp. Wangenflecken/Cheek-spots, Nannacara anomala, Mikrogeophagus altispinosus, M. ramirezi, Laetacara curviceps, L. dorsigera. All will breed in neutral & moderately hard (<10º dH) water. Most other dwarfs - except those that live in extreme blackwater biotopes - will live in the same water. Some might even breed in it, but others will not.
 

Mike Wise

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Tap water with a pH 6.5 is normally relatively soft. Without knowing what "slightly hard" means, it is hard to give more than general information. Some good fish to start with - that handle most water conditions that aren't extreme - include: A. cacatuoides, A. borellii, A. eunotus forms, A. caetei, A. sp. Rotpunkt, A. sp. Wangenflecken/Cheek-spots, Nannacara anomala, Mikrogeophagus altispinosus, M. ramirezi, Laetacara curviceps, L. dorsigera. All will breed in neutral & moderately hard (<10º dH) water. Most other dwarfs - except those that live in extreme blackwater biotopes - will live in the same water. Some might even breed in it, but others will not.

Your on the right track by starting with fish that tolerate your tap water values instead of playing "chemistry set" with your aquarium.
 

Spartan16

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Thanks so much mike, I will take your list to the local fish store, or use it to buy from two fish guys.

I'll test the hardness, and ph again and post it for you.

I was looking at all these buffers, and extracts but that seems like to much work, money, and instabiltiy.

I think I will just go with your suggestions, add some driftwood, and try peat if I need to.
 

Spartan16

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So I was wrong. I bought new testing kits.

While my KH is less then 70 ppm, my GH is off the chart. My ph is 6.8.

Is this a diaster waiting to happen if apistos are added. I do have peat nuggets, and haven't used them yet.

Advice guys.
 

Mike Wise

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So I was wrong. I bought new testing kits.

While my KH is less then 70 ppm, my GH is off the chart. My ph is 6.8.

Is this a diaster waiting to happen if apistos are added. I do have peat nuggets, and haven't used them yet.

Advice guys.

It really depends on the species that you want to keep. For breeding, anecdotal evidence indicates that pH & KH have more of an effect on soft water fish like apistos than does GH. Your water will probably do OK for whitewater species & many clearwater species, too. If Cardinal/Red Neon or Rummy Nose Tetras can live in your water, then it should be OK for most dwarf cichlids.
 

jose_vogel

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Strange thing, Mike.

I always pay more attention to TDS or conductivity (I know, they´re not the same); then I pay attention to GH, then to PH.
 

Spartan16

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Thanks again Mike,

So can I still use the species you listed before? I am also planning on using a little peat also.
 

Mike Wise

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Jose,

TDS/conductivity values are important, especially for blackwater species. For whitewater species it is less important. I will admit that high conductivity tends to reduce fertility, but I have seen reports of (small size) spawns of blackwater apistos in high GH/low KH (high TDS) environments. For an apisto beginner like Spartan16, who will be starting with whitewater species, I don't think he will need to worry about TDS/conductivity at the start. Once he move to more difficult species, it will be important.


Spartan16,

The fish I first recommended should live in your water. Your KH is fine, but when you wrote, "my GH is off the chart", I would be curious to know what you mean? 200 ppm or 2000 ppm GH?
 

Spartan16

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Sorry Mike, let me explain.

My GH test kit only measures up to 214 ppm. That is 12 drops into the kit. It took about 14-15 drops for color change. So I reckon that puts the ppm between 214 ppm and 300 ppm.

All your info still stand.
 

Spartan16

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Thanks so much mike. One more question if you don't mind. What is the best substrate for a DC tank for a beginner. Should I just use my reg. tank gravel. Try sand? that seachem flourite? I want to use live plants also.

I have live plants now in my community tank, egeria densa. I put them straight into my reg. gravel, and use a iron supplement.

I want something simple, yet good for my DC's
 

Mike Wise

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Egeria really is one of those plants that take the majority of its nutrients from the water, not the substrate. It is often used as a floating plant. If you want a nice fully planted tank, then start by setting up the tank for plants. Once it is established, add fish. Apistos are geophagine cichlids. Like their larger Geophagus relatives, the like to sift throught the substrate for food. It is best to use a fine sand to fine gravel (<2.5mm diameter) for the substrate. It is "mouth size".
 

ed seeley

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Aquasoil is a great substrate for planted tanks but it does leech ammonia into the tank when new and supplies lots of nutrients for the plants. IMHO it's best used with farily heavy planting, about 2wpg lighting and CO2. I know many use it with less than these conditons but it seems like a waste to me! I'd go with sand for the dwarfs as they love to dig in it and even my tanks with AS have sand at the front for the dwarfs to dig around in!
 

Spartan16

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Virginia
Yeah sand sounds like the best. Won’t have that many plants so that Aqausoil might be more hassle then its worth. I have only used gravel before. Sand doesn't seem to take that much maintenance. I am not going to ever get a really large aquarium so I believe apistos will probably be my fish of choice for many years. Assuming I like them as much as everybody else!

But what kind of sand should I use? From what I read, I’m leaning toward pool filter sand. Caribsea makes many different kinds too. Their Torpedo Beach has really caught my eye.

For example:

http://www.caribsea.com/pages/products/super_nat.html

Amazon looks too big for granules. Torpedo Beach looks best maybe?

I really appreciate everybody’s help. Once I nail down this sand issue, I think I will be good to go. I will just go with plants that like sand. I’m sure my Egeria Densa will do fine.
 

ed seeley

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Just make sure whatever sand you use it doesn't contain carbonates that will raise your pH. I am sure I have heard that some Caribsea sands raise pH, but sure this isn't all of them. The only way to be sure is to use a strong acid to test the sand. I use an Aquarium sand over here that is very well priced and totally inert called BD Aquarium Sand. It is very similar to pool sand.
 

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