Eeek! Algae!

[Rick Lindsey]

Unfortunately i seem to be better at growing algae than plants . I have a 75gal "show" tank (5'long, 2'tall, 1'wide) with two 40W T-12 bulbs in a shoplight fixture in the hood. It has a fine gravel substrate, and is planted with several Jungle Val and one anubius that I tied to the top of a lava rock. Unfortunately none of the plants are faring well -- the jungle val turns brownish at the edges, and bits break off, and some of the leaves seem to be doing an accordian thing. It's funny though, one of them seems to have shot off runners and started a baby plant right next to it.

Recently I started to notice some brownish algae on the sides of my tank, and I wiped most of it off. I also realized that most of the leaves on my anubias were also coated with some sort of algae -- one leaf, however, is bright green and does not appear to have any of the algae on it. I've also started to get spots of brownish algae on some of my rocks, and it's getting worse on the walls.

I have 5 danios in the tank cycling right now, it has no ammonia and sky-high nitrite, I'm waiting for my second bacteria colony .

I got some 0-0-3 fertilizer at the pet store, with iron, and molybdenum I think. I added enough for the 60 gallons of water (at the time I hadn't finished adding rocks so I left a few inches shy at the top) and then added the appropriate amount according to the bottle when I topped off the tank.

I'd be thankful for any insight or algae fighting measures anyone might suggest!

 

[Rick Lindsey]

Oh, i forgot to mention, I don't have a timer yet, but I typically turn the lights on at ~8am (sometimes as late as 11:30) and turn them off at about 9 or 10pm. If I forgot to turn them on until lunch then i'll usually leave them on later at night.

 

[farm41]

The brown stuff is actually diatoms, and will go away, usually otocinclus are very good on that type. I wouldn't suggest that you put any fish in there until your tank is cycled. When your nitrites fall to zero go ahead and put a dozen otocinclus in.

First thing to do is get a timer, and set it for about 8-10 hours a day.

I think at this stage you won't benefit from adding the extra potassium, give it a little more time. Try getting some crypts, and some java fern would be good too. Both of those and the your anubias are good for low light tanks.

HTH

 

[ddaquaria]

After the tank has fully cycled, brown algae can also be caused by a high nutrient levels versus not enough light or plants to support it. If the brown algae is persistant, cut back the ferts and the feedings.

farm41 is correct in saying 1) get a timer and 2) get some otos per farm41's instructions.

I also agree with the plant selection farm41 made, but I would not put crypts in a newly cycled tank. From my experience, crypts prefer a mature tank. In a newly cycled tank, they just "melt".

 

[aspen]

i would barely fert that tank at all, your lighting is not going to get the plants growing very well, and fert is a good thing to add to a tank where algae is the main goal.

rick

 

[ddaquaria]

I'm not sure what this means "fert is a good thing to add to a tank where algae is the main goal. ". But my interpretation did not agree. Ferts are used to balance the nutrient levels in the tank. Ferts include trace minerals, iron, and other items found in aquatic plant fertilizer. Without ferts, your plants will start to lose the battle against the algae.

Light wise, I think you don't have enough. I would recommend at least 2 watss per gallon. If this is not possible, then we use the 80W and get lower light plants like jave fern, java moss, anubias, and crypts.

Algae is just part of teh process. I observe the algae to find out how the tank is doing. For example, going from brown spot algae to green spot algae - in my opinion means you're doing something right. I have a 120 gallon (4x2x2) with 500 watts of light (2-250W MH). I does daily with trace minerals, I fertilize weekly, I have CO2 on the system, and I feed frozen-homemade mix about every day. Do I get algae - YES - the green spot type that you see on your aquarium glass. Have I gotten anything worst that that - NO. I t is all a balancing act.

My mom tank is a 36 corner. I am using 4-15W bulbs that I have had for at least 4 years. No Co2 dosing. She feeds a small amount every other day. She doses TMG (10ml) once per week. I do water changes everytime I visit (about once every 2-3 months). Her tank looks wonderful! I'm actually going to enter it into the AGA contest coming in september.

Now I will stop my ranting. Can you grow plants in 1W per gallon - YES. Can you grow all plant - NO. You have to be picky. What can you do to help with low light, add the proper dosing of ferts and monitor your system.

 

[aspen]

sorry, donald,i re-read my post and it was misleading. to clarify that statement, when one has low light levels, algae will explode if you add even moderate amounts of fert, ime. maybe i wasn't quite clear. with your tanks, adding fert is a must, your plants might show iron deficiencies in a week with no fert, with the high light situation that you have. but in a low to moderate light tank as rick's is, the plants wouldn't 'eat' much and there would be plenty of nutrients 'left over' to get a good crop of algae growing.

btw, i was admiring your tanks on your website. your tenellus in your discus tank is a jungle! the discus really look 'at home'. nice work, and really nice photos. i hope you don't mind if i post the url for others who may not have checked out your site. it is worth a good long look at all of the pics.

http://homepage.mac.com/donalddavis/ddaquaria/

rick

 

[ddaquaria]

I read your post as "do not fertilize" - which I don't agree with. Thank you for the clarification.

Again, it is all about balance. I have noticed with my mom's tank that even the slowest growing plants grow fast under the righ conditions. My secret with her tank is lighting, small feedings, and small amount of fert. I'm holding to add pictures of her tank later.

Thanks for the comments on my tanks!