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My three planted tanks

chris1932

Apisto Club
Staff member
5 Year Member
Messages
357
Location
Spring Grove PA USA
I keep plants in every tank in the fishroom but these three are my major efforts in plant keeping. They all have about the same setup with pressure
Co2, canister filters, heater modules and lots of light. Each tank has a different theme so to speak, one being a habitat for my wild angels, another for wild discus, and the third houses schools of smaller fish "cardinals, panda corys,sewellia" and a spawning quartet of Geophagus taeniopareius. I have had some time on my hands so they are all looking photo worthy.

DSC04462.jpg


DSC04479.jpg


DSC04480.jpg
 

dw1305

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Messages
2,773
Location
Wiltshire UK
Planted tank

Hi all,
The tanks are nice. I always admire any one who can keep their tanks as "aquascapes". However I start mine always fill up over time with extra clay pots, bits of wood, coconut shells, pipe "tunnels" etc. and then I think "that wood would be better with some Java fern on it", and whilst I'm there I'll just staple that spare bit of moss on there and that spare bit of Anubias, and I've got a couple of spare Cryptocorynes, and then these new lights are a bit bright, so I'll put some Salvinia (and with it duckweed) in, and I've got a some Floating Fern (Ceropteris) spare, a few dead leaves would be good and eventually they all end up as a dark weedy tangle of mulm and algae covered wood and vegetation.

dw1305


cheers Darrel
 

strohl71

New Member
5 Year Member
Messages
78
Location
Detroit Area, USA
I keep plants in every tank in the fishroom but these three are my major efforts in plant keeping. They all have about the same setup with pressure
Co2, canister filters, heater modules and lots of light. Each tank has a different theme so to speak, one being a habitat for my wild angels, another for wild discus, and the third houses schools of smaller fish "cardinals, panda corys,sewellia" and a spawning quartet of Geophagus taeniopareius. I have had some time on my hands so they are all looking photo worthy.

DSC04462.jpg


DSC04479.jpg


DSC04480.jpg


A quick question if you do not mind. I also have a planted tank but at this time none of my plants are tall enough to reach all the way to the surface. I notice on your photos (especially the top photo) a lot of your plants reach the top and are very dense. How do you filter your tank without plants and leaves constantly getting sucked in and blocking the system? When sword plant or anubias leaves in my tank get close to my filter, I end up cutting them away. Otherwise, the suction will bring them in and they will just stick and clog. So what do you do?
 

chris1932

Apisto Club
Staff member
5 Year Member
Messages
357
Location
Spring Grove PA USA
The top tank is an old 150 gallon reef "72x24x20" tank that I took the corners out of, I left the bulkheads intact and ran a section of 1" pcv that I preforated up about six inches off the bottom and slid a pond sponge over. There are two other canisters on the tank and they also have coarse sponges covering the suction tubes. To keep the number of filter parts I have down I just got another FX5 and the filtration on the tank will be done over.

The next tank down is a 150xt "48x24x33" and has an FX5 and a Penguin 350 that are the same as the bottom tank with the exception of some automation. The canister discharges through a UV light and a Heater module/Co2 diffuser "home made", there is a Hach SC100 TDS monitor that triggers a drain valve and top off. The drain and fill turn on at the same time and can only flow .5gpm so the tank level does not change. All of the flow throughs after the canister create head loss and I was concerned about overloading the pump so there is also a low flow sensor, and low level failsafe. Wiring the little relay panel and programing the controler was a bear. I also have to option to add temp monitoring and control as well as pH.

The tank that has the Ozelot Green mother plant in it is also a 150xt has a Fluval FX5 and "the strainer is the size of my fist". To aid further I placed the large piece of driftwood caddy corner in front of it. The Penguin 350 has gotten the preforated and sponge treatment. The white pipe that is in the left corner is a constant siphon. If I start a drip it will start removing water and keeping the tank level constant, once water is not being added the siphon stops once a static level in the trap and tank have equalized.
 

rodalan

New Member
5 Year Member
Messages
8
could use alittle advise

First off your tanks are beautiful, thus why I am asking you.
I am wanting to setup a 180g 72â€x24â€x24†tank with a lot of plants and a few species of apistogrammas, which I am still debating the species. Thinking triple reds, blue rams, and borellii paraguay, but I like to change my mind. I have been doing a lot of research before I start this project, and one thing I found out is you need at least 3 watts of lighting for each gallon, and once you get to 24†deep that you need even more intense lighting. So in your opinion what type of lighting system would work best? Will it be necessary to get Metal Halide? This is my first plant setup I have always had the larger cichlids: a few Oscars, Jack Dempsey, and some Convicts (which spawned to my surprise, none survived). They wouldn’t have ever let me have a plant setup. I am open to any other advice you got, I am eager to learn. Thank you.
 

chris1932

Apisto Club
Staff member
5 Year Member
Messages
357
Location
Spring Grove PA USA
First and most important, have a plan. Draw it out a few times, plants require water parameters much like fish. The higher the light the faster the growth. How much time do you have? Fish and plants that would grow together in the wild will compliment each other in your tank.
With a tank of that size you have a lot of room for some nice larger fish that will not hassel smaller fish.
Remember that mother nature porvides equaly for all. In your biotope this should be kept in mind. Bottom scavangers, bottom dwellers, mid water swimmers, top dwellers.
I do not think that metal halides are a must for a freshwater tank thats 24" deep. Unless all you plan on growing in the tank are ground cover "and apistogramma need shaded areas" plants you would be ok with t-5 or compacts. Its the leaf that needs light not the root.
More important especially in a new tank would be Co2 and proper distribution of Co2. A good diffuser is very important and on tank that wide if you are using in tanks I would use two. If you are using a canister filter a simple chamber can be made and run inline.
Kh and macro nutrient balance would run very close to the top of the list also. Good substrate goes a long way. I use Flourite with a top layer of red flint and fine sand in that order. It takes time to lay it all down and get it settled but it pays dividends in the long run. Apistos and Corydoras need fine sand in order to; apistos can sift ; corydoras can run their barbles without damaging them, live happily and feed.
Lastly a good root suppliment goes a long way to happy plants www.aquariumplants.com has one of the best systems I have ever used. Purchasing good plants is also very important. Bunched plants always look terrific in the store, but thats because they have been cut from the tops of mother plants recently. If they arent starting to sprout roots pass on them. Large plants like swords should have long cream colored roots that are branching. If there are any grey or brown roots that run all the way to base of the plant pass, it is dying back.
It is no secret that I prefer wild types of Apistogramma, My choices of species for a tank that big would be;
Norberti
Baenschi
Borellii
Wilhelmi
Any of these species will be good in a tank with that much bottom area. I would limit myself and only keep two species in the tank in groups of 6-10 with three males and remainder females. Two areas of leaf litter on opposite sides of the tank, natural caves, driftwood.

Top dwellers
Marbled Hatchet fish

Mid schoolers
Cardinals
Neons
Emperors
Kerri Tetras
Pencilfish

Bottom dwellers, any group of corydoras "12" will be fine if you keep to size group 1 such as Panda, the size group includes some very nice specimens.
Concolor
Mamore
Napoensis
Griesus
Copei
Tukano
C133
Breei

Ottos are going to be a must, Stay away from plecos unless they are meat eatting only and stay small. Many of the cute species grow to be giants that will have a different opinion of how your tank should look than you do.

Dont be in a rush, I had one of my 150 gallon tanks sitting in the basement empty for six months while I collected my thoughts. It is IMHO my best work to date, I took my time.
Hope this helps

Chris
Amazon Tropicals
 

rodalan

New Member
5 Year Member
Messages
8
thanks

Thanks for the insightful response. It will give me a much more precise focus to getting my setup prepared. Thank you again.
 

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