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I don't have good pictures yet but here are my current observation after having them for a small bit (6 weeks). I have three - in theory 2 female and 1 male but i suck at confirmation of their sexes. They are around 1 1/4 inch to 1 1/2 inch so i believe they could be sexually mature. One stays...
All i know which isn't much is my wc a. pucallpaensis have lots of black spots but the kids don't. Mind you i dont' raise very many of the kids as well i can't handle millions and billions of a. pucallpaensis but i do have a few.
Totally unrelated but the kids are a lot smaller than the parents...
The first day or so they are free swimming they will eat their egg sack. Only after the egg sack is exhausted do they start eating. I'm not sure how long yours have been free swimming. I usually use a magnifying glass the first few feedings to make sure they are going after the food.
probably - i've kept both - there might be additional stress to the apisto since the panda don't understand territory but they are not aggressive and pretty thick skinned so they would mostly just ignore the apisto or perhaps swim away if pecked enough. Don't believe they would touch eggs/fry.
i typically try for 4 times a day the first week. after that 3ish. 5 wouldn't hurt anything as long as the food is all eaten and not decaying. Folks say worms work well (micro worm) because they live longer in water but i've never gone that route.
Live food seems really important as it is the movement of the that seem to trigger eat me response. I've tried feeding various species of apisto frys on golden pearl and similar fine food without much success - i mean they appear to eat it when examined but they then seem to die. My success with...
Well this is good to know i have several wc apisto with lots of black spots but the 2nd generation never had it - didn't realize it was the cause of a parasite.
The best diet for the first couple of weeks are live bbs (baby brine shrimp). After that they can be adopted to taking dry food fed to the parents in small bits; though they will grow faster if you continue to feed them live food - primarily baby brine shrimp.
The krobia can handle harder water than many sa fishes but yea the mix in signals would cause a lot of aggression and these fishes depend on signals to prevent serious harm.
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Mine readily breed without effort in 140tds water; and i was told by the seller he was breeding them in 200+ tds water...
Vaguely I think i saw some for sale last year for around $50 or $60 a pair but i didn't pay attention to the details; redblue list them for $200 (not in stock) but that store is usually 2x to 3x as most places i've seen. In 2017 aquabid shows that a pair sold for $600. Hum. Never bid on a fish...
Thanks - i will presume then they are pair forming for life. The nice thing about their behavior is i don't have to worry about them harming each other which is always a concern with me with many other species.
Just be aware that apistogramma is a genus and while there are general characteristics that apply to many species generally speaking few rules apply to all species so it is best to ask about specific species rather than the genus as a whole when it comes to keep them.
Well i can't comment about how selective they are as the two i had in the 20 spawned; but i'm just surprise by the lack of violence between them and that the female does not turn yellow like other species. She is very comfortable with the male around her while she has frys though he does not do...
Just a few pictures and didn't want to create new threads:
a. ortega tank:
an a. ortega:
ivanacara (or is it nannacara) bimaculata; tank:
and one of the ib:
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I'm finding two difficulty when it comes to photographing these aquariums:
FIrst the phone is able to display colours et all on...
I have bacopa and it is either some weird species or more likely something totally different. bacopa isn't really leafy and this plant is - i've seen it before but i can't recall where or if i ever knew the name.
It looks a lot like my echinodorus parviflorus when it spreads (plantets) but i...
Well what i can say is they don't turn yellow like other species; should probably hatch some bbs soon:
I don't think this is a pair forming species but i can say that after the first week they are much more calm (m/f behavior) with very little aggression by the male. This is very different...
And now 5 months later the dots still have not returned. Note this is the side of the tank that face my desk; they have 10 feet of aquarium space and yet they have to pile up right next to my desk; probably giving me the evil eye:
Will update - your thread if that is ok with you but it will likely be in about 6 to 12 months; however long it takes them to mature. The tank right now is very dark due to tannis but i hope to lighten it a bit. I'll make sure the frogbit get established My discus tank (wc discus); is not...