Softening Water

[Ron Gretz]

reducing water hardness

I came up with an idea to reduce the water hardness in my tank. I use a biowheel and don't really have any place to put peat in the tank. I went to the LFS and bought a filter cover ( an extremely fine mesh net covering ) that one would normally put over the water intake on a biowheel. Rather, I took some peat (from a box of loose Fluval peat I had purchased) and filled the mesh bag with it, pulling the opening shut and tying the strings in a knot (resembling a duffel bag). It floats very nicely at the top of the tank and is very clean; keeping all of the peat inside the bag while providing the water softening effect of that the peat provides.

 

[Neil]

Ron,
Glad to have you aboard . I have used the same methodology with peat. I usually filter the water first through peat and then add it to the tank, but I have also had good results with peat filtered through mesh in the way you suggest directly in the tank. Although it might reduce hardness to a limited degree, I was under the impression that peat primarily reduced the pH in a tank. I have not seen any noticable difference in my hardness. However I am using peat in tanks with almost straight RO water, so I could be mistaken on its effects in harder water. How much change is there? Neil

 

[Cichlids1]

I actually have a couple 15g tanks with about 2 inches up peatmoss as subtrate under an inch or 2 of gravel. The one thing I have noticed about using peat it that it works S-L-O-W. Good for fish, bad for impatient aquarist like myself. But, it did soften the water up over time and lowered the pH to levels that I had never seen. It also kept it there rather well. No major swings up, or crashes and bottom out. Both tanks have a pH of 5.0 to 5.2 and the hardness is in the 1 or 2 degree range (The gephyra and D. filamentosa have started calling one tank home). The plants, swords and crypts, also love it. Great growth and deep green colors. Been going for a little over 2 years now. I know that the peat will loose it's usefulness eventually, and cleaning out that substrate is not a task I'm looking forward to. Wasn't thinking about that when I set them up

 

[Neil]

That peat substrate method seems pretty interesting, but I would acknowledge how much trouble it is going to be to clean and, therefore, probably steer clear. But I like the idea all the same and it sounds like it is working great. Just move some of the gravel and you can get killies to spawn in it. That would provide an excellent sourse of nutrition for the apistos :wink: . Just kidding.
I did a small amount of reading and found that peat is a fairly efficient hardness reducer via digallic acid, which is part or the same as the tannic acids(tannins) we hear about. It leeches minerals from the water, but only to a certain point apparently, which would offer a suggestion about its buffering quality too. Regardless of the specifics, it has been avaluable aid to me. If it weren't for peat, I would be buying family size bottles of pH Down. :?

 

[farm41]

I would like to soften my water, so, if I put peat in the chamber of my magnum 350 that will soften the water. Have I got this right? How much peat? Do I just fill the chamber?

38g
Ph7
Kh8
Gh11

co2 injected
onyx sand

 

[Neil]

farm41,
That will probably work, but as I remember a magnum 350 shots the water at a pretty high velocity. The water probably would benefit from a little longer exposure to the peat. Is there a way to slow the flow a bit on that? Also make sure that there is some kind of a filter screen or something on there or the peat pieces with be all over the tank, Even if you use peat fiber, it will loose bits as it goes and with fast water running across it...
I use a hot magnum with peat inside (turned off) and a small power head connected via tubing at the bottom of a water-change holding tank. The water is drawn through the PH and up 2 feet( where it now is going pretty slowly) into and through the Hot Mag. It dribbles back out into the tank.
I have tried it with the filter power on and it had the problems I described above!
I really don't know about onyx sand, but that may be leeching minerals into the tank water. Maybe someone else know more! Neil

 

[farm41]

The onyx sand is made by seachem and they stated it would have a slight buffering effect. It has raised both the Gh and Kh.

I know the magnum is overkill on a 38g tank, and I think I will move it to my 57g. It may become my 2nd apisto tank.

How about an RO? What is required for an RO if I just want to lower the hardness?

 

[Neil]

farm41,
Yes, an properly functioning RO will take out 99% of the elements that created hardness in your water. Most people actually mix back in a little tap water to buffer the pH. However, if you sand is leeching minerals into the water, you are going to have contrary forces working against each other. I don't know about that sand and that you wouldn't have the same GH and KH with and RO because of what the sand is doing. If it is just a "slight" buffering effect, it will probably go down.

 

[farm41]

I bought some water at the grocery store, I hope it will help until I can an RO. In my 38g tank I usually change 25% every sunday. How much distilled water should I add to the change? I just tested the store bought water, it is 1 or less on both Gh and Kh.

 

[Neil]

farm41,
How much water did you get? If you got 10gal., that would probably be OK. 10 out of 38g. will not drastically alter your water in one shot. Do the full 25% water change with the store water. I would expect that your fish and plants will like you for it. Neil

 

[aspen]

farm, i know that you don't want to hear this, but that substrate that is leaching carbonates is a losing proposition in a soft water tank. you KNOW what you have to do, don't you... maintaining soft water with a low ph will always be a battle this way. lose that gravel my friend and save it for your african cichlid tank. use inert substances in your tanks and you will be better for it.

rick

 

[farm41]

Thanks Neil, I've got 8 gallons. I guess the next change in a week will have to be mixed.

Aspen, you are right, but, I am going to move the fish to my 60g that has fluorite and gravel. That way I can have more apisto's and not have to throw away that expensive sand I just bought.

I was advised the Onyx Sand was the best substrate going for plants,and the buffering wouldn't be noticable so I stocked up, 3 bags in my 20g, 4 bags in the 38g, and I have 5 more bags on the floor ready to go in my 55g. I really like the stuff for planting and the looks, but I may have to yank it all out and go to flourite.

 

[Neil]

farm41,
I think that flourite has unbelievable benefits to a Dwarf Cichlid tank, but I don't know much about it. I am going to start a new thread in hopes of finding out more. Neil