My Main questions about the water PH.

[EddieC]

Some time ago, I set up a 240L Blackwater tank, I used Bogwood and Alder cones to lower the PH and when it was done with the traditional Biotype conditions, sorry to say I HATED how it looked, Staring into brown ice tea water is not my idea of how to enjoy my fish.

So that leads me onto my main thought.

Can I lower PH and still keep the water withut going majorly brown, I read about Bi-carb Soda but takes a lot of doing,

I dont want a tank full of tannins evem though I have read a lot of the arguments as to why they are good,

Can I use chemicals that don't smell. I am not so worried about the smell but as stated in my into I am a full time care worker for my Mum, shes has a VERY serious chest condition and I have to be so careful about using ANY Chemicals.

I have used a well known Buffer to kick start my African Chiclid tanks PH is their a simmilar product to lower PH.

I am no longer interested in setting up a traditional Biotype, good luck to those who love it but it just isnt me.

I want clear, lighter water,

Any suggestions please ?

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

Can I lower PH and still keep the water withut going majorly brown, I read about Bi-carb Soda but takes a lot of doing.......I have used a well known Buffer to kick start my African Chiclid tanks PH is their a simmilar product to lower PH.

Bi-carb of soda (NaHCO3) is definitely a non-starter. You can't really add products to make the water softer, that help with keeping Apistogramma etc, but you can have a clear water with a low pH.

What you really want is low conductivity ("low ppm TDS") water, with <"low hardness"> (both carbonate "dKH", and general "dGH" hardness). One problem people have is that pH is a strange measurement, it is a ratio which means that similar pH values can occur in water that is chemically very different. As you move towards pure H2O pH becomes a less and less meaningful measurement.

In carbonate buffered water, like the African Rift lakes, pH is alkaline and stable, meaning that it takes a large change in water chemistry to effect the pH value (pH is "buffered"), but in soft water very small changes in water chemistry cause large changes in pH.

I use <"rain-water">, but you may find your tap water is actually fairly suitable for Apistogramma. You should be able to get a water report from your water company and that will gives us a bit more idea about what you can do with your water (to make it suitable for Apistogramma spp.)

Have a look at <"Dwarf Cichlids.."> it is a very useful web-site.

cheers Darrel

 

[EddieC]

TYVM Darrel.

I have my Afrrican Chiclids all sorted out now Chemistry wise but want to revist setting up a suitable none Biotype SA/CA Aquarium.

And her to be obeyed wasnt impressed with my Biotyp called it a 'Vudoo Tank' and had the place up before I even had chance to put ANY fish in it lmao.

As for Rain water there is a huge factory at the bottom of our village Producing Soap Products lol without giving my address out bbut anybody who knows my locality will know where I am LOL..

I tested the tap water with Tetra PH Test Kit. I know for a fact that The Wirral is one of the very 'softest' water areas around, With tetra test kit it runs at just over 7, 6 holding it too the strip would consider Bogwood as I know where to get some really nice plants on Bigwood.

I think I only need to lower the PH a little. I used alder cones and Almond leaves before whilst it was correct on the science side we both didnt really like the look of it all said and done,

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

....... I know for a fact that The Wirral is one of the very 'softest' water areas around, With tetra test kit it runs at just over 7, 6 holding it too the strip would consider Bogwood as I know where to get some really nice plants on Bigwood. I think I only need to lower the PH a little. I used alder cones and Almond leaves before whilst it was correct on the science side we both didnt really like the look of it all said and done,

You could use <"citric acid"> (C6H8O7) to lower your pH, you can get it cheaply for food preservation from Amazon etc., (it comes as a crystal). Have a look at Regani's comments in the link, he is both a chemist and an Apistogramma breeder.

If you want some low tech. plants PM me, I have plenty spare you can have for P&P.

cheers Darrel

 

[EddieC]

Citric Acid, Sourced it, I went away from keeping Apisto's for a while as THE TRADITIONAL Biotype was a none starter for me and her in doors,

But experience and a learning curve is always something that makes you keep an open. Thanks for the offer of the plants too much appreciated, The great big 450L tank of Afican Chiclids is fun but would also like the reverse challenge of keeping something smaller too !

 

[mgfiest]

drift wood or oak leaves can lower ph and keep it clear.... i am testing fluval peat granules in my filter. I first put the peat in a nylon stocking and pre soaked it first to get rid of the dust... now waiting to see if really going to lower the ph.

the question i asked.. has anyone else done this and if it was successful how long did it take to lower the ph... my ph right now is 7.2 and would like to lower the ph so that i can purchase gbr.

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

the question i asked.. has anyone else done this and if it was successful how long did it take to lower the ph... my ph right now is 7.2 and would like to lower the ph...

This isn't really a simple answer, it depends upon the level of solutes in the water. In the UK you can get values for hardness from your water supplier, but I'm not sure about in Canada.

Do you have a TDS meter? if you do, a TDS reading would give us a bit more idea whether the peat granules will work.

Have a look at this thread: <"http://www.apistogramma.com/forum/threads/nijsenni.19321/">.

cheers Darrel

 

[mgfiest]

ok then... purchase a tds meter and watch the wonder